Oleg Mindiak
If you’re lucky in the streets of New York you might encounter the Scarlet Empress. Oleg Mindiak is a sartorial phantom, a kind of good luck charm, and a fascinating personality. We asked her to let us peek behind the curtain.
Metier Book: Where are you from originally and how long have you been in New York?
Oleg Mindiak: I was born in Russia of all places but brought to the states by my adoptive parents at 9 months old. I was raised in southern California and moved to NYC in the summer of 2018.
MB: You're obviously influenced by the past but can you speak more about your specific style influences?
OM: Currently, my main sartorial ambition is to emulate the first third of the 20th century, specifically the fashions of the Weimar Republic. While I do wear some period garments, my style thrives on '70s, '80s, and '90s takes on the '10s, '20s, and '30s. Designers I study are somewhat predictable: Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiaparelli, Coco (Fascist) Chanel, Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionnet, and Lucile. People and things that inspire my fashion choices: Marlene Dietrich, Anita Berber, Tina Chow, Corrine Huhnke, Madonna between 1990-1993, Ken Russell's Women in Love (1969) and The Boy Friend (1971), period films produced in the early 1970s, neue Sachlichkeit paintings, Brigitte Helm, the list goes on.
MB: It seems like you're also in a red phase, why red, is it a phase?
OM: Well the idea to go red initially popped into my head while I was in Berlin last summer. My dear friend who lives there told me "Berlin is not red, you can't do red." Naturally, I accepted the challenge. It is a challenge, but I am always hungry for a sartorial endeavor that will tickle my brain: in this case, I can no longer rely on color blocking and complementary/contrasting color combinations. Instead, I have to look at hue/shade, silhouette, and texture which I find to be much more interesting and inspiring than merely color. (I do include pink in my red spectrum). At the time of publication it will be just about a year of red and I have no desire to change, red just feels right. It's the color of passion, power, lust, confidence, danger, romance. It energizes people; I've been stopped on the street multiple times by people telling me that the red put a smile on their face or made them feel a little more perky.
MB: You're doing something I love, using each new day as a canvas of expression. Why do you think what you wear is such an important outlet for you?
OM: Fashion/style (there is a difference) are the protective shell between you and the world. It allows you to have some control over how the world perceives and interacts with you. What you decide to put on your body can tell the world "I believe in this" or "this is how I am feeling today" or "don't fuck with me fellas". This is truly powerful because it gives you agency and a voice without having to actually engage with people. When I dress I hope I make people think, whether it be about gender, history, politics, even fashion itself. For me specifically, I have to be constantly engaged with my style, it keeps me alive. There is no better feeling than putting together a new outfit with pieces that have been hanging in my wardrobe for a while. Ultimately, I wish that everyone would wear what makes them happy and what they feel good in (but not necessarily comfortable). BUY SECOND HAND!!!!
MB: I agree buying second-hand just makes sense now. Do you pay attention to current fashion? Is there anyone who is actually exciting you with new clothes?
OM: Honestly, no. I suppose Amy Fine Collins (almost) always looks great in contemporary designs but I see her being more stylish than fashionable. I don't use social media to follow current trend-setters nor do I have a Tik-Tok which, according to Vogue Business, is where all the current micro-trends are coming from. I'm very much a historian so all of my inspiration is from the past. I just come up with new ways to wear past styles, putting together outfits that excite me!
MB: What about New York makes sense as a home base for you now?
OM: I suppose it's the freedom with which I can walk on the street and express myself to the fullest degree. I can try on new versions of myself and not feel completely ostracized or hated, although immature teasing does occur occasionally. Although it does not occur as often as I'd like, NYC is still great for people-with-great-outfit watching. There is nothing like seeing a superb ensemble strutting down the street. I also enjoy New York for its proximity to Europe. I feel very connected to the continent I was born on and plan on spending more and more time there; living in NYC gives me the flexibility to visit and eventually start planning a life across the Atlantic.
OM: I had a revelation on why red feels right for me: Most people use their gender (man/woman) as a central pole for their identity, with most (if not all) of their lives revolving around this allegedly essential truth. I've been exploring different gender expressions and presentations for the past few years and have realized that using red as my central identity enables me to be more expressive and adventurous in my gender because I know that the red is stable. Does that make sense?
Follow Oleg on Instagram: @olegmindiak
Interview by Mary Sucaet @marysucaet
Photo credits: @kelvin_degrees_celcius @julieshoots film @tommarazzi @watchingnewyork @kdkillion courtesy @olegmindiak